Brilliant cuts use triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged to maximize light return through multiple internal reflections. The classic round brilliant has 57 or 58 facets; light enters the crown, bounces off pavilion facets, and exits upward, producing high brilliance and fire (dispersion of colored flashes).
Step cuts feature parallel rectangular facets resembling staircase tiers. They emphasize color depth and clarity over sparkle and are common for emeralds (emerald cut) to showcase hue while minimizing visibility of inclusions. Mixed cuts combine brilliant-style crowns (for sparkle) with step-style pavilions (for color and weight retention). Oval and cushion shapes frequently use mixed cuts. Choice of style depends on the gem's refractive index, color saturation, and inclusion pattern.